Pushing the Limits to create a Signature Style

A look into the Life and Closet of Tom James Client: Phil Graham

The clothing that Phil Graham selects is an integral and highly visible part of his personal brand. With the assistance of his Tom James clothier, Duncan Ham, Mr. Graham has been able to develop a signature style and a wardrobe that is distinct and particularly suited to his profession, personality, and aspirations.

Who in this picture is getting your attention?

Having worked at a Ralph Lauren Polo store in college, Mr. Graham’s interest in clothing and style got an early education. He recalled to us that his first suit was a navy double breasted number by Polo. Since that classic beginning, his wardrobe has taken a series of turns that have refined his personal expression. A client for the past twelve years, the first suit Phil purchased from Tom James was a custom Executive Collection blue windowpane with a three-button jacket and pleated pants with cuffs and a full break.

A marketer at heart, and not one to follow the crowd, Phil says, “I like things that are in style but usually past the limits of what most people are comfortable wearing. I buy what I like and don’t care what others might think, however I want it to be the current cut and fit.” I take the ‘I don’t care what others might think’ thought to mean that Phil will not allow traditional norms to confine the colors and patterns he chooses to wear. Why get lost in a crowd? You can’t blend in if you want to stand out.

Taking that perspective as good advice, why not dress in a way that makes you feel at your best and supremely confident? Mr. Ham advises that “dressing the mind is sometimes more important than dressing the body. In other words, people should dress for their own confidence. What are you telling your subconscious when you look in the mirror every morning? Professionals like Phil affirm to themselves through getting dressed each day that they are successful.”

Mr. Graham told us that he wished he had learned sooner to avoid dressing in a way that might cause another person to mistake him for someone other than who he is: a successful, professional marketer of financial services and insurance. As he put it, “Do you dress for your profession or do you look like a PGA golfer? Of course, if you are on the PGA, then golf shirts are acceptable.”

One of the most valuable benefits of working with Tom James and Duncan Ham, says Phil, is that “Duncan knows what I like and speeds up the process. I don’t have to shop all over the place to find unique items. Most importantly he knows the fit and style I want and makes everything that way. Lastly he helps me manage my wardrobe and eliminates older items that I don’t wear anymore (of course making space for new stuff.)

With ESPN basketball analyst, Jay Bilas (left), Phil is the one with the Ferragamo shoes that perfectly coordinate with his tie and pocket square.

Phil’s favorite piece of wardrobe advice?

“Spend money on nice shoes. Nothing looks worse than a nice suit and a cheap pair of shoes.”

Looking for a new limit to push (sartorially),

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TUMI: More than the perfect carry-on luggage

Most business travelers are at least aware of the TUMI brand of luggage…especially the carry-on sized roller bags that fit in the overhead bins on most airlines. I never travel without the one I’ve owned for a few years. It works like a dream and still looks like new.

But did you know that they are also making an ever-expanding range of supremely well-designed travel accessories? Admittedly, I didn’t know about some of these genius ideas until recently, but that’s what I and my TJ Associates are here for... looking out for your total wardrobe experience.”

One of the smartest accessories from TUMI is their Mobile Power Pack. I don’t know about you, but my technology devices all get used a ton and I am constantly in need of keeping them juiced up. Being able to charge two devices at the same time is a serious bonus.

TUMI Mobile Power Pack style 14376- is engineered to be compact, efficient and powerful—a reliable tool for hassle-free charging of cell phones, iPads and other USB devices. With ample power (5,000 mAh) and two power ports, the TUMI Mobile Power Pack can charge two devices at the same time and is designed to work anywhere in the world. This kit includes the power pack, USB/USB micro power cable and protective ballistic carrying case. MSRP $145

The travel kit you will never need to replace is from TUMI. It looks small, but I assure you, it will hold it all!

TUMI Travel Kit Style 22190-Our most popular, slim design fits easily into many of Tumi's outside U-zip pockets. Features easy-access opening to interior. This item can be monogrammed with three initials. MSRP $95

I talk to a lot of guys who don’t wear ties (you did catch that rhyme, right? Nice.) when they are in their home city/office, but when they travel, the suits and ties come out in full force. Business development is serious work. Good ties cost good money, so it’s worth taking good care of them.

While text book advice suggests rolling your ties for storage at home and on the road, the truth is that most guys don’t do that. Rolling your luggage: easy. Rolling your ties: not so easy. And a rolled tie is still vulnerable to catastrophe inside your luggage. A better solution? Why not carefully store your chosen ties in this awesome case when travelling? As long as you don’t let a bacon wrapped meatball land on them like I did with my new favorite tie (now not so favorite tie) last weekend, your ties will last a lot longer and pack super easy.

Austin Tie Case - Luxurious detailing, refined aesthetics, organizational efficiency and technical innovation are raised to the highest levels with The Bedford Collection. Incorporating the finest leathers and fabrics with artisanal craftsmanship and advanced engineering, Bedford is a reflection of Tumi's heritage and ongoing dedication to absolute excellence. This slim tie case slips into virtually any carry-on or packing case, keeping your ties wrinkle free. Made from durable ballistic nylon with leather trim (black) or Italian texture coated canvas with leather trim (grey), it has a zip-around closure and four collar stay slots. MSRP $195

TomTalks and Tom James enthusiastically endorse the TUMI product line because of the TUMI difference.

The TUMI difference: Innovation is our Obsession

With a 30-year history of creating superior products for discerning professionals and frequent travelers, TUMI is recognized as the world's leading brand of luxury travel, business and lifestyle accessories. TUMI’s success can be traced to its continual focus on its principles of design excellence, functional superiority and technical innovation.

Flawlessly crafted and designed with meticulous attention to detail, Tumi’s sleek and stylish business cases, luggage, and other travel accessories ideally complement a Tom James wardrobe. Tom James merges the finest fabrics with artisanal craftsmanship while Tumi's ongoing dedication to technical innovation and supreme functionality makes them an ideal collaborator.

Tom and TUMI, working together to keep you covered, confident and comfortable,

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The Collar and Cuffs set the Tone! (part 2)

At the end of your shirt sleeves are cuffs, and at the end of those cuffs are your hands, which are both exposed (unless you’re wearing gloves) and expressive. When you point at something, reach for the check or extend your hand to shake that of another, your shirt cuff is momentarily front and center.

In simple terms, there are three types of shirt cuffs:

1. Barrel
2. French
3. Link/Convertible

A Barrel cuff is the most common and least likely to draw any special attention. Usually it has a rounded corner and fastens by one button, though a two-button cuff is favored by many who have their shirts custom made.

A French cuff (aka "double cuff") is the most formal and substantial of cuffs, and the most likely to garner both attention and respect. Consisting of a double-fold of cloth and requiring the use of cuff links, French cuffs are both dressy and sophisticated, providing a more formal and finished appearance. When the occasion demands a substantial statement, the extra minute or two it may take to put them on will be more than worth the effort.

A link cuff, though viewed dimly by French cuff purists, is popular among those who like to wear cuff links, but want it to be as easy as possible. In this case, the cuff is made similar to a barrel cuff, but instead of fastening with a button there is simply a button hole on each side of the cuff. Should you ever need to wear a full dress/white tie ensemble, a link cuffed pique shirt is the proper shirt. Taking link cuffs one step further (to the chagrin of some and the delight of others), a convertible cuff if one that includes both the button of a barrel cuff and the extra buttonhole of a link cuff, giving the wearer the ultimate in versatility.

It may go without saying, but because of what I have witnessed and requests that I have heard, say it I must: it is not advisable to wear French cuffs with button-down collars. Though it is possible to have a shirt made that way, it flies in the face of protocol. If you are contrarian by nature, then by all means, have it your way. As a rule, French cuffs go with formal or dressy collars. Shirts with button-down collars should have barrel cuffs.

A final thought: Considering your upcoming social calendar, in the event that you will be drinking beer from a plastic solo cup, then go with barrel cuffs. You will probably want to roll up your sleeves anyway. If, on the other hand, you will be drinking a martini (whether shaken or stirred) from a classic cocktail glass, then go French.

Always in style, from head to…wrist,

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The Collar and Cuffs set the Tone! (part 1)

Choosing wisely what shirt collar and cuffs to wear is fundamental to setting the tone of your appearance. A change of the collar or cuffs won’t change the language of your look but will give it a different accent. For example, a cutaway collar is decidedly more formal than a button down and a point collar is more staid or common than a tab or pin collar. French cuffs are more formal than the more common barrel cuff. But, it’s really not about your shirt’s collar and cuffs. It’s about your face and hands.

Just above the shirt collar is your face, which is where you want other people to look. Like the frame around a picture, the goal of your shirt collar is to perfectly frame your face, to immediately draw the eye to your face and eyes. Think about the shape of your face. Is it pretty much average, a little longer than most or as round as a cantaloupe? Are you an average size person, built more like an offensive lineman, or relatively slight in build? Your shirt collar should complement your overall build, the shape of your face, and the style of your clothing (particularly the lapel of your suit jacket.)

Conventional wisdom (that is, a preponderance of thoroughly considered, professional opinion) suggests that your shirt collar should counter balance, offset, or compensate for any deviation from “regular.” A counter balance is a weight that balances another weight. In general, a person with a long, narrow face should wear spread collars and one with a round face should wear narrower point collars.

The best shirt collar for you is one with the height, spread, and point length that comfortably balances with your overall build, the shape of your face, and the length of your neck. If you are having shirts custom made you can have the height of the collar band adjusted in the front and back to the length of your neck (Note: The gentleman in the pink, spread collar shirt above would look more balanced with an extra high front and back on his shirt collar.)

Which one of the collar styles on the progression above is best for you?

Three fashion collars that are enjoying a moderate renaissance are the tab, rounded or club, and pin collars. All three of these collar styles require a tie that can achieve a relatively small knot. The tab collar is particularly versatile and appropriate with modern clothing that is cut trimmer and with narrow lapels. The rounded collar is more theatrical or eccentric. The pin collar will bring out your inner Gatsby.

At a minimum, from the full range of collar style options, decide on a dress collar style (one that you would wear with a tie) and a casual collar style that you most prefer and that look the best on you. Go deep with those two collars and then try some others that depart from that foundation as you define or evolve your personal style.

Part 2 will cover more on cuffs.

Setting the tone,

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Express Yourself: Choose with Care your Shirts and Ties

If the truth be told, any article of clothing you wear is afforded some opportunity for self-expression. Even your undergarments – from traditional boxers shorts to the more ”evolved” Tommy John. Had to throw that in there because I knew where some of your minds immediately went too. Tom ain’t no fool!

But, to focus on those items that are most visible and tend to attract the most attention by those who only see you with your pants on: shirts, ties, and other accessories provide the most leverage for self-expression, the element of your personality that is fundamental to the positive persuasion of others and to getting what you want out of life.

How to spell Comfort: A-G-A-V-E

Courage, compassion, conservation, confidence and, most emphatically, comfort describe what Agave Denim lifestyle clothing is all about. Tom James and our customers like Agave for several reasons, not the least of which is that, like most Tom James clothing, Agave products are Made-in-the U.S.A. Designed in Portland, Oregon and carefully sewn and hand-finished in Southern California, Agave jeans and T-shirts epitomize a “West Coast” vibe. What’s more, Agave production is environmentally sustainable, using luxurious fabrics that are soft and that want to move with you.